While staying in Antigua I decided to hike to the top of the dormant Acatenango volcano in order to have a front row seat as the active volcano, Fuego, erupted (approximately 16 times an hour). This hike is not only my favorite thing I’ve done in Central America but it is also high on my list of cool things I’ve done in my life
This hike is challenging but if you have perseverance and average physical fitness, it should be within your reach. There are a plethora of tours operating out of Antigua that will organize your Acatenango trek. Five trekking companies stand out amongst the rest, known for their high quality and safety standards. The peak of Acatenango is 3,976 meters tall and most tours have a base camp near 3,500 meters, allowing you to watch the crimson lava explode out of Fuego after the sun has set. As this is an extreme altitude to be sleeping at, I’d definitely recommend choosing a reputable company for your Acatenango hike. Besides having the appropriate medicine if you get a headache (the first sign of altitude sickness) the better companies will have thick sleeping bags for the freezing nights.
I typically consider myself the most adventurous backpacker in a room but I met one traveler that has me beat. This British man on a year + journey decided to hike Acatenango on his own. He travels with a tent, sleeping bag, gas stove and has done enough hikes to know he can carry up all his food and water and survive high altitudes. Since even I wouldn’t consider this option, I’m going to skip the details on how he managed such a feat.
The Five Main Acatenango Trekking Companies
- Tropicana– Tropicana is the Antigua party Hostel. This trekking company is known for having large groups of trekkers and offers a glass of wine at the top of the mountain. In my tour many people had headaches which could mean they were experiencing altitude sickness. Thinning your blood with alcohol doesn’t seem like a great idea, but very few people actually die while hiking Acatenango. Tropicana is more expensive at 500 Q but it offers marshmallows once at the campsite, breakfast before the hike and a discount at the hostel after the hike.
- Wicho & Charlie’s– Also on the more expensive side at 450 Q without the entrance fee, this company is more like glamping. They have chairs for the trekkers at the base camp as well as a weatherproof kitchen with raised platforms for the beds. Wine and marshmallows are offered and they have hiking boots you can rent. One downside is that the trekkers have to carry extra water for cooking at the campsite.
- Balam Tours– Priced at 400 Q, this company has raised platforms for the beds and includes a flashlight for the morning ascent. Wine is offered and the campsite has chairs and a great view.
- OX Expeditions– Outrageously more expensive than the other companies, they offer a day hike that returns to Antigua by 5 PM and an overnight hike that includes a detour onto the active Fuego volcano.
Gilmer Soy– After reading great reviews and that they donate money to help build schools, I chose this company. As a bonus, it was only 300 Q and 50 for the park entrance fee. On top of that, my group got a discount and were only charged 250 Q. The downside is that you are charged 10 Q for each item you borrow (hat, gloves, scarf and walking sticks (coats are included), making the price comparable to other companies. I’m extremely happy with my choice to see Acatenango via Gilmer Soy and the rest of this article will describe what that decision entailed.
I hiked with a group of 9 other travelers. At 7:45 AM we were picked-up from our hostels and rode for an hour as we reached the base of Acatenango. At the Gilmer Soy office we chose the warm clothes we wanted to rent and were given a lunch box. After a five minute drive we were dropped off outside of a school near the entrance to the volcano. A child from the school yelled, “muchos gringos!” as we piled out of the car and walked towards the volcano.
Over the next five hours we walked uphill with very few level-offs. Every fifteen minutes we took a break and at noon we stopped to enjoy our packed lunches. Meat eaters had chicken and rice while vegetarians had potatoes and rice. Gilmer Soy has one guide for every six trekkers so we had one guide in the front and one in the back. Having a guide on each side allowed us to split up into groups based on our hiking speed. There was no pressure to keep up or slow down. We were allowed to go our natural pace which was a relief.
By 3 PM we had reached the base camp and quickly put on layers of clothes as we were now in the clouds. Looking across a valley, we were eye level with Fuego. I can’t imagine a better campsite existing as we were as close as looked possible. We were shown our tents which had a sleeping mat and extremely thick sleeping bags. We had a kitchen area with a fire to sit by. We played games for three hours as we occasionally caught a glimpse of Fuego through the clouds. At 6 PM we had a delicious hot meal of chow mein noodles, beans, tortillas and mashed potatoes. Later in the night we were given hot chocolate. As the sun set we were able to see bright orange lava explode out of and trickle down the side of Fuego.
The next morning we woke-up at 3:45 AM. We put on our head lamps (you need to bring your own) and began a steep ascent to the top of Acatenango. At this point we were climbing volcanic ash so for every two steps forward we slid back a step. Slowly, slowly we made it to the top, just as the sun rose and the sky turned pink. From the top of Acatenango we looked down at Fuego and saw Lake Atitilan and other volcanoes in the distance. We took photos and marveled at the beauty of nature until we were all ready to head down. The descent was a blast as we surfed down the volcanic ash. Back at camp we had pancakes and coffee for breakfast before packing up and making our big descent. The downward trek took less than three hours and thanks to trekking sticks it was not too hard on my knees. Gilmer Soy picked us up at the bottom of the volcano and we rode to his office to return the gear. We had a one hour ride back to Antigua and our magical adventure was over.
What really impressed me about the Acatenango experience through Gilmer Soy was the ease in which they made it all happen. I had been so nervous about being cold on the top of the mountain but the sleeping bags were very thick! Our guides spoke English, didn’t rush us, made delicious meals and had medicine if we needed it. Watching an active volcano erupt before my eyes was such a unique and spectacular experience and I hope everybody in this part of the world takes the time to hike Acatenango, the third tallest volcano in Central America!
Chronicles of a Wandering Soul 