Should I Skip San Ignacio

San Ignacio is on the western side of Belize, 14 kilometers from the border of Guatemala. It is a backpacker town, one of the few places besides Caye Caulker that tourists typically visit. Due to the close proximity to the border many travelers spend a night here before going to/coming from Guatemala. Also, tourists solely doing a Belize trip like to visit here to get a feel of jungle adventure after visiting the islands. However, if you are continuing your travels in Central America, this particular jungle town wouldn’t rank very high on the list of must see places

ATM Cave

I initially did not like San Ignacio but after three days there I was quite fond of it. I booked my non-refundable lodging in San Ignacio before I realized the popular Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave cost $85. This cave is the reason most tourists come to San Ignacio. The cave has been featured in National Geographic and was only discovered in 1989. This archeological site has been left largely untouched and after swimming through cave tunnels for 45 minutes you get to a Mayan sacrifice cave. Glittery skeletons and pots are found on the ground and guides tell stories about Shamans on hallucinogens and sacrifices due to a drought. I know this because I interviewed everybody at the hostel to see if the ATM cave was worth it (and they all said it was) but I still couldn’t allow myself to spend $85 for a six hour excursion. I’m sure this adventure is incredible and a once in a lifetime experience but there is one key difference between the people that went on the tour and me. I’m traveling indefinitely and I’m technically homeless and unemployed and they were on smaller trips with a life they were returning to. Since my readers are probably more like the other group, I would urge you to go to San Ignacio and experience this cave.

Where to Stay

I was stuck in this tiny town, determined not to do the one thing that it is known for. I thought I’d spend all day in front of a fan working on my blog but I actually had a blast and lived in the moment. I owe all of this to the hostel I stayed at. I stayed at the Old Town Hostel and the staff there were hippies like myself. The dorms were simple and inexpensive. There is a kitchen so you can save money and make your own food. Also the porch has a cushion and hammock chill area that is divine.

River Tubing

I made a friend that was doing a workaway for that hostel and we explored the Macal River with inner tubes. I read many blogs that suggest canoeing or swimming in the Macal River. That certainly wasn’t a thing that people actually did. The river was very shallow and had lots of green seaweed at the bottom, however, from the comfort of an inner tube it was quite enjoyable. We floated in the river (for two hours) until we reached Branch Mouth where two rivers met and then walked back (30 minutes) to San Ignacio.

Farmer’s Market

San Ignacio has a huge farmer’s market in the city center. Not only is there every type of produce you could possibly desire, but cheap clothes are also sold there. I found quick-dry trekking pants for $5 BZD.

Shoe Repair

If anybody has worn out shoes there is a quirky but skilled shoe repairman in San Ignacio. By the entrance to the Macal River across from the rainbow San Ignacio sign is a wooden booth where a local man sells paintings and repairs shoes. My hiking boots were falling apart and this kind gentleman sewed the rubber to the suede and glued it back into place. This service cost me $10 BZD and saved my shoes and toes from tragedy.

Xunantunich Mayan Ruins

Xunantunich ruins are easily accessible from San Ignacio. You can take a colectivo for $3 BZD to the ferry which is one mile from Xunantunich. Once you get across the river it is just a short walk before you reach the second tallest Mayan ruin in Belize. I climbed to the top of El Castillo and had a stunning view of the neighboring ruins. The entrance fee is $8 BZD making the total cost $14 BZD once you catch a colectivo back.

Mayan Cacao Making Demonstration

For $24 BZD I took a Mayan Cacao making class. AJAW has 45 minute demonstrations and tastings each hour that you can sign up for. I was the only one there during my hour so I was given a private lesson for $12 USD! My teachers showed me the cacao fruit and explained the fermentation process. I tried roasted and natural cacao beans. We then crushed the beans against two Mayan stones. The heat the stones create releases oil that makes the chocolate smooth. I tried pure 100% chocolate and it was delicious. We then added a teaspoon of the pure chocolate to hot water to make a cacao drink. In different rounds we added honey, pepper, allspice and cinnamon to the drink. The Mayans saw drinking chocolate as a religious ceremony usually done on the solstice or equinox. After the class I was able to try dark chocolate bars and chocolate liqueur. I’m a chocolate lover so trying pure chocolate with no preservatives from the culture that invented it was very special.

An Argument to Skip San Ignacio

I have mixed feelings about San Ignacio. I had a great time there but I can’t honestly recommend going there. If you have your heart set on the ATM cave, then of course go there, but otherwise you can get your jungle fix in other ways.

I met two types of travelers in Belize: one was on a quick holiday (usually American) and the other traveler was doing a large Central America trip. For either one of these I can think of a better way to get your jungle fix. When I got to San Ignacio I was coming off of two weeks of living in the jungle of the Hummingbird Highway. There were inexpensive caves to explore like St. Herman’s and Cockscomb Wildlife Preserve had mountain views and a plethora of waterfalls. People coming to San Ignacio often book an $80 tour to Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve or rent a car and explore it on their own. I inquired and hitchhiking is not advisable. However, to get to Cockscomb I was able to take a local bus and walk the rest of the way.

The traveler continuing on to Central America can get their jungle fix in Guatemala. There are caves and waterfalls at Semuc Champney as well as many other places in this part of the world. Although I enjoyed the Xunantunich Mayan ruins they are a pool compared to an ocean once you have seen Tikal. You can easily have fun in San Ignacio, but do you have to go? I think not. What I would encourage people visiting Belize to explore is the vast jungle surrounding the Hummingbird Highway.