My original reason for going to Croatia was the need to leave the Schengen Zone after a cold winter in Belgium. I dreamt of warm days on the beach and this lead me to Split, Croatia. I spent five weeks there and experienced my very first Workaway, volunteering at a hostel called Silver Gate. I worked four, seven hour shifts a week, which left lots of time for exploring the city!
I spent May and the first week of June in Split. This was before the busy tourist season, so the hostel I worked at was often empty. I had an amazing host that allowed me to paint the hostel walls during my shifts. He gave me complete creative freedom and I ended up painting aliens, a dragon, a cat and a unicorn battling in space, and a bald mermaid. In exchange for creating these masterpieces I got free lodging in an often times empty dorm room.
My first impression of the old town in Split was that I had been transported to Italy. Gelato and pizza stands are on nearly every corner. You can get a large slice of cheese pizza for only ten Kuna. The old town has adorable stone streets giving the city a quaint and romantic vibe. Many of the stones in Split were brought over from the island Brac. This limestone is world-renowned and was actually used inside the White House in Washington D.C.
Another notable area of Split is the green market near the docks. At this market there are lots of delicious vegetables, nuts, figs and cherries for very cheap prices. There are also street vendors stocked up with sun hats, swim trunks, lavender soap, and sandals. A further walk leads to the Second Hand Shop, a thrift store where clothes are sold by weight.
Split has one of the rare sandy beaches of Croatia. Typically, Croatian beaches are covered in smooth stones. Bacvice, the sandy beach, is right by a lot of cafes and bars and is usually crowded. Men will often be knee-deep in the water playing a classic Croatian game called picigin. The water at this beach is very shallow, such that one will have to go far out in the water to fully submerge. Off to the right side of the beach are some rocks jutting out of the water that I loved climbing on top of.
A fifteen minute walk along the coast brings you to Kastelet Beach. This was my favorite beach in Split. This beach has a rocky peninsula with a bar at the end. Kastelet beach is ideal for those who want more space to themselves. I also liked going to Park Suma Marjan, since it has many hikeable trails.The Adriatic Sea surrounds the park, in which there are private, forested areas leading into the water. Near this area is Kasjuni beach with many bars and some bumpin’ house music. I recommend hiking to the lookout point of Marjan Hill, which gives the best view of Split, the Adriatic Sea, the islands, and the ferries.
I happened to be in Split on a quirky holiday called Split Day, during which the town turns into a music festival. Children in traditional outfits performed dances while old men in bands sang on stages. For some reason wooden birds on sticks are all the rage on this day. There were many children walking these birds, whose wings flapped as their wheels moved.
While working at the hostel, I noticed quite a young crowd. I checked people in and saw a lot of 1995-1997 birth years on passports. The younger crowd typically wanted to go on the nightly Pub Crawl for which Split is well-known. In May, few people were joining the Pub Crawl. One night, only twelve people turned up and they ended up at Charlie’s Bar taking shots. I heard that in July over 200 people attend events at nightclubs as part of this Pub Crawl. Ultra Music Festival is held in Croatia in early July, giving Split a surge of young ravers. Split is also the port city from which the ferries depart to many of the islands. This makes it a popular destination before and after people start island hopping.
I would recommend going to either Plitvice lakes or Krka Waterfalls when visiting Croatia. As part of my Workaway exchange the hostel I worked for was able to arrange a free visit to Krka. Otherwise, tours to Krka from Split typically cost around 300 Kuna. The trip includes transport to and from the falls, in addition to five hours there to walk around and explore. The waterfalls are stunning. The water is crystal clear. There are many trails to explore, with rivers to hop over and trees to climb. It really is a magical place!
It is certainly possible to experience Croatia on a budget. Konzum supermarkets are everywhere; they offer cheap groceries with which you can make your own meals. Also, Croatia has two-liter beers you can buy for about $2. The beer tastes like piss water but for that price it is hard to indulge in an expensive imported Somersby Cider (one of my favorites). With its vibrant nightlife, relaxing beaches, a large park you can hike around and a starting point for your island adventures, Split is a great way to start your Croatia experience!
Chronicles of a Wandering Soul 