My two experiences in India could not have been more different. After a month of having my energy drained in Goa, I found that I was an angry, defensive and ugly version of myself. I came to Thosamling Nunnery in Dharamshala trying to be positive, but very fragile and untrusting all the same.
I never expected that I was walking into such a welcoming, self-aware and safe community. My month of volunteering at the Nunnery healed me. My introverted self had time to recharge and I left the Nunnery a better person. I started my travels in Nepal absolutely glowing with love and positivity after such an incredible month with kind Buddhist practitioners and spiritual travelers.
Thosamling Nunnery is situated in the foothills of the Himalayas in Northern India. It is technically in Sidhpur, which is a quick hike from Dharamshala and a longer hike from McLeodGanj, the home the Dalai Lama. The Nunnery is a home to international Buddhist Nuns. It is also opened for women interested in Buddhism to stay and further their development.
As you walk through rice fields to reach the Nunnery, the loud car horns from the street slowly fade away. The overgrown paths and vegetable garden make it feel both mystical and charming. It is very quiet and peaceful at the Nunnery with a spectacular view of the mountains from the open balcony housing.
A typical Day
One quickly gets into a routine while living at Thosamling. There is a 5:45 a.m. gong to wake those interested in the morning meditation. At 7a.m. there is a breakfast of home-made bread, peanut butter, and porridge. Karma meditation tasks are taken care of throughout the day with plenty of free time to walk around the garden, meditate, or practice yoga. At 11:30 a.m. a delicious heavy lunch is served. A bell is rang for all meal times so a guest could choose to live life without a phone or watch. Then at 5 p.m. there is a simple dinner of soup and bread, though most of the Nuns choose to fast. Occasionally a Puja or a talk from a Lama or Rinpoche takes place, breaking up the monotony. Life has a quiet pace there but it was just what I needed to recover from the my month in Goa.
Life as a Volunteer
As a volunteer and not a guest of the Nunnery, my days looked a little different. I primarily worked in the kitchen which meant I was preparing those delicious meals I just told you about. I became a pro at making bread, making 10 loaves at a time. I must have made 70 loaves while I was there! I learned how to make peanut butter, tahini, samosas, banana lassi, and many other delicious Indian delicacies. Despite how calm the Nunnery seemed from an outside perspective, things in the kitchen got quite fast paced. Especially on Shamatha retreat weekends when we were feeding over 30 mouths.
Shamatha Retreat
My last weekend there I was fortunate enough to participate in the Shamatha retreat. It included four days of no phones, no talking, and at least five hours of meditation a day. I learned the best ways to arrange the cushions to avoid leg numbness. I also got lots of practice on single pointed meditation as we had to focus on one object.
The most amazing part of my experience was when I had the opportunity to go to all four days of the Dalai Lama teachings. As a volunteer I should have a maximum of two days off a week but my hosts wanted us volunteers to make the most of the experience and encouraged us to go to the teachings. I’ll have to devote another article to fully gush about how powerful and moving of an experience I had.
Surrounded by Self Awareness
The vibe of the people at Thosamling Nunnery was calming and self aware. The nuns mostly kept to themselves but always offered a friendly smile. Happiness and peace of mind exuded out of them and they were inspiring to be around.
My hosts made me feel welcomed right away. After 17 workaways I’m usually pretty nervous as I arrive to a new host and have to figure out how to incorporate my energy into their dynamic. However, it immediately became apparent that I didn’t have to change to fit in.
The other volunteers were very wise and I learned merely from watching their example. As things would come up that would bother them they would always look inward and fix their own desire to get upset, rather than blame the other person. It matched perfectly with the teachings from the Dalai Lama and I immediately started to recalibrate my reaction mechanisms.
There were also a handful of guests staying at the Nunnery. These peaceful souls came to India not solely for tourism, but were taking the time to detach from the hustle and bustle and work on themselves. Each woman had a unique story and lessons to teach me. At meal times we would warmly greet one another and ask how we spent the day. We all checked in on one another and like good friends they humored me and ate lots of my homemade peanut butter! I walked around the garden and buildings and smiled as everyone around had become my friend. I was comfortable and content, a rarity while traveling.
Thosamling was such a supportive community and I felt safe and appreciated. One of my fellow volunteers even told me that I was, “such a positive and stable person to be around.” This amazed me. She clearly did not see me in Goa, yelling at men if they approached me on the beach.
I always considered myself somebody that liked male energy. I certainly didn’t see myself seeking out an all female society, but it was actually fantastic. I think it helped that the ladies around me were all self-aware and far along on their spiritual path. We built each other up and supported one another in a way I wasn’t used to.
Need I say more? I had an amazing month and I’m eternally grateful and a better person because of my time at Thosamling Nunnery. If you’re in India I would 100% recommend volunteering there, taking a Shamatha course, or staying as a guest. Besides the Nunnery, the area is full of other museums, and Buddhist retreats that I will address in a separate article. To visualize the vibe of this place watch my highlight video here!
Chronicles of a Wandering Soul 